There comes a time every year when we exchange our beautiful dry flies for gaudy chunks of foam, plastic, wood or yarn. There are certainly opportunities to fish with dry flies throughout the winter season, but to consistently hook fish when the thermometer drops it is sometimes necessary to make the switch over to what some consider to be the dark side of fly fishing. Indicator fishing may have its stigmas, but it is a surefire way to improve your catch rate and a great way to learn where fish hold and feed when they are not actively eating on the surface where you can see them. Indicator fishing is pretty easy, but there are some common mistakes that keep many fishermen from unlocking the real potential of the technique. Knowing how to avoid these errors will accelerate your learning curve and help you catch more subsurface feeders!
The Dead Drift: The dead drift is your key to success in most nymph fishing situations, but it is overlooked by many fishermen learning to nymph with an indicator. The basic idea is that the indicator acts as a floating hinge point between your leader and fly line above the surface, and the remainder of the leader with your flies attached below the surface. The hinge setup enables your rig to sink at an angle close to ninety degrees, more easily penetrating the current to reach fish holding deeper in the water column. When used properly your indicator setup allows you to drift a fly or a team of flies beneath the surface at the same speed as natural insects that would be swept along the bottom into the waiting mouths of hungry fish, but it takes some practice. The one element to avoid when trying to obtain a dead drift is drag. Drag is the enemy of the dead drift and can be caused by several different variables. If you do not allow significant slack during your presentation by either mending or feeding line into the drift you may have too much tension on your line. A line with no slack will be swept by the main current and cause your flies to swing up off of the bottom, speeding unnaturally away from the fish. To prevent this from happening you must pay attention how the indicator moves in the current. If it is dragging, a “V” shaped wake will form around it, and you know to add some slack in the form of a mend. Observe your indicator as it floats by and take notice at which direction the drag “V” is coming from. If the “V” is pointing upstream, the drag is coming from upstream and by performing a downstream mend this will set things right. If the “V” points downstream your line is probably dragging in the heavy current and pulling the indicator down with it. This situation can occur if you are trying to fish over or across heavy current to softer water on the other side. It can easily be corrected by mending some slack line upstream. Countless beginning anglers assume that if their indicator is floating at the same speed as the surface current, they are getting a perfect dead drift, but this is not always the case. The current in a river is faster on the surface than it is on the bottom. Because of the rough, rocky texture of most river bottoms, drag causes the current to be slowed to almost a halt in some cases when above the river can be blitzing by at full speed. In this situation your indicator might be floating at the same speed as the current, but your flies below will be ripping by the fish at the speed of sound! This is why it is important to cast well upstream of your intended target to give your flies some time to sink. As they are sinking you can make what I like to call an indicator mend. This is basically an exaggerated mend that flicks not only your slack fly line, but your indicator upstream as well. Depending on the speed of the current you can move your indicator anywhere from a few inches to a couple of feet or more upstream of where your flies entered the water. This allows the flies time to sink and get a “head start” on the indicator so it is not dragging them unnaturally.
The Strike: Another prevalent mistake anglers make when learning to use a strike indicator is not detecting the strike! Strikes are often much more subtle than you might imagine, and if you are waiting for your indicator to jolt a foot under the water like when you used to fish for bluegill on grandpa’s farm pond you are missing oodles of fish! A fish can inhale your fly, decide it is fake and reject it all in a split second, and even the most seasoned angler might not even know he had a strike. This is why it is very important to focus on the movement of the indicator and set the hook at the slightest bump, pause or unnatural movement. Sometimes your line will rip away and you will know for sure it is a fish, but other times your indicator will simply twitch, twist, tip, tick, pause, move to one side or drag funny in the current and these are all signs of a subtle strike. You may come up with nothing, but hook sets are free and the biggest fish are often the most subtle takers! Have the mindset that its always a fish. As a side note, make sure you choose an indicator to fit the size of water, current speed, flies and shot you are fishing. Many yarn indicators you buy from the shop are overdressed right out of the package and need to be trimmed smaller before they will be useful. I love the New Zealand Strike Indicator Kit as you can make your own size to match the water and size of flies/weight you are using. There are other options of indicators on the market like the Thingamabobber, Airlocks, Insta-sets, Frog hairs and many more. However, the indicator that I use the most, along with almost every guide that I know in Northern California is the Jaydacator. This indicator comes in many different sizes and is hand-turned out of closed cell phone. The most crucial part is its an inline indicator that rides true and shows the most subtle of strikes. Also, for its size, it holds more weight than that of the equal size thingamabobber. The indicator that you use should be able to support the amount of weigh you are fishing with and no more. This way it is sure to detect the most minuscule bumps, tugs or grabs. If the yarn indicator is overdressed or your “bobber” is too big, not only can it spook the fish but you have a good chance of missing the strike completely. Try these tips and hopefully you will discover indicator nymphing to be an easy and effective fly-fishing method.
Equipment necessary to nymph for steelhead
Now that you have the concept of how-to nymph for steelhead let’s go over the gear you’ll require. Id like to note that while you can nymph with a 2 handed rod, its not the most ideal tool for this job. We will talk about 2 handed rods in a later article. Here I will go over specific rod, reel, line combos and more.
Fly rod and reel setup
I personally enjoy nymphing with a 10ft 7wt for steelhead. This length of the rod will assist with mending and casting at distance while wade fishing. It will give you a strong enough back bone to “put the wood” onto some bigger fish and it’s still light and nibble enough to be able to fish all day long. Plus with it being 10ft long you have a slightly softer tip to protect lighter tippet essential in those low, cold and clear water conditions. Being a shorter rod than your 2 handers, you have a more accelerated hook set as well, especially if you are working longer drifts. For reels, most medium-sized, entry-level fly reels will work. If you already have a striper fly fishing set up, this reel will work great, just purchase a spare spool and you are good to go. One word of advice, being that most of us will be wade fishing for steelhead, do yourself a favor and purchase a machined aluminum reel. If you slip and fall, you won’t bust your reel as you would with a cast aluminum reel. You may ding it or scratch it, but you will not bend or break it.
Fly Line and Leader Setup
Setting up your rod, reel and line isn’t complicated. You can see my leader set up in my Indicator Woes article. After place backing on your reel, your rod will demand the proper fly line. There are thousands of lines on the market, some extremely expensive, others very cheap, what to get is always the question. I ask you this, “if you drive around a sports car, are you going to feed it 87 octane fuel? Heck No! Same goes for your line, it’s the integral piece of your set up, so don’t skimp on it. I prefer a weight forward line that has a longer head/belly length which aids in mending at distances. I have found that the Rio Indicator Nymph line, one line weight heavier than your rod is the perfect line for steelhead nymphing. After loading your backing and fly line onto your reel, I like to add a Rio 6ft 12lb mono tapered leader, a side not, your pound test will differ with the fish target as well as the fishing conditions. However, this is my most used set up for our Nor Cal, inland steelhead fisheries. If you fish the coast for steelhead, you will definitely be using a higher pound rating and a 10ft 8wt rod. At the end of this tapered leader that’s going towards your flies, tie in a perfection loop. The first 3-4ft of this tapered leader will be used as your indicator section. From that loop add a loop to a 3’ section of 2x Rio fluorocarbon tippet material and add a small barrel swivel at the end. This is a loop-to-loop connection and allows you to change setups quickly if needed. You could come across some steelhead sipping drys and this allows for a speedy swap to a dry fly set up. SIDE NOTE: Do not snip the tag end of the 3’ section of tippet material at the barrel swivel, this will be used later in this section. Next, on the other end of the swivel, tie in 16-20” with 3x Rio fluoro tippet to your first fly, then on the bend of that hook tie in another 16-20” of 3x Rio fluoro to your second fly. These lengths are for a 2-fly set up below the swivel, if fishing with a 3-fly set up, go 16”, 16” then 18” of tippet. Also, you will want to have your heaviest or biggest fly as your first, or point fly, then tie in your smaller fly below that and your smallest fly on the bottom. Now about that tag end that you left, if you need to add split-shot, you will place it on the tag and the main tippet line. This way you are not pressing it just on the main leader line and possibly weakening it. If you feel as though you will get hung up a good amount, just crimp it firmly on just the tag end. Now, you are ready to go.
Top 10 must have nymphs for targeting steelhead
When picking up flies I always recommend calling upon your local fly shop for flies that are working on the river you are going to fish. Their in-depth local knowledge is topnotch. Spend a few bucks with them and ask them some questions, they are always willing to help. Outside of the local shop knowledge, I feel there are always some go to patterns that I will always carry in my steelhead fly box. Here are some of my go to flies that you can always find at your local shops like Fly Fishing Specialties. Don’t forget to buy several (Id typically buy 1/2doz) just in case you lose or break some flies off.
- Glo Bugs-a must have during the salmon spawn, also when the water comes up they like to key in on the brighter colored eggs including the clown egg
- Pats Rubberlegs-another must have, big, buggy and if you have stoneflies in your river, steelhead gobble them up like candy. Plus, it pisses them off too
- Stonefly Nymphs-like the Pats Rubberleg but a more realistic tie. When they get picky this may be the way to go. Golden, Black, Brown, Egg Sucking stones too
- Copper John-can’t tell you how many steelhead have fallen prey to the CJ. An old school fly that just works. Blue, Red, Chartreuse, Green just to name a few
- Prince Nymph-traditional pattern, a good point fly and its just buggy looking under water.
- Psycho Prince-this fly is very similar to the CJ, flat out works. Blue, Purple, Green, Pink, Yellow
- Montana Prince-again just like the CJ and Psycho Prince, a go to fly when nymphing for steelhead
- Pheasant Tail-old trusty faithful. When they start keying in on traditional flies this is my go-to. Sometimes sz10s sometimes sz18s
- Hares Ear-this is in the same category as the Pheasant Tail. No need to go further than that.
- Worms-need I say more. Also, when the flows go up, the aquatic/earth worms come out. Oh, don’t forget purple, when worms get cold, they turn purple.
Time to master these tactics
Now that you are all rigged up and ready to go, lets go over the actually technique of nymphing. As stated earlier, the goal is to create a long drag free drift with your nymph set up where you think the steelhead will be holding. You will want to cast your rig up river, well above where you think they are holding. After casting up river, add that very large upstream “indicator mend” to assist in getting your flies down and starting that lengthy drag free drift. Be sure to follow your rig with your rod tip up as it floats down the river at it at a 45deg angle or so. Some like to high stick their nymph set ups, which is fine too, this is what I do. Typically, the colder the water the colder the fish and the slower they will be moving. So, target those slower deeper moving sections of the run you are in. Pay close attention to your flys and indicator, if you aren’t hitting bottom often, adjust your set up to fish deeper. If you are scrapping bottom repeatedly then shorten it up. While you want to be near the bottom, you don’t want to be on the bottom. Steelhead/trout look out and up, not out and down, so you want to fish though or above them, not below them. If you have been fishing an area for 30-45mins or so and haven’t outsmarted a fish, its now time to move towards the head of the run you are fishing or to a completely different section of the river that may look more “fishy”. Sometimes simplifying it by just changing the color of your fly can make all the difference while nymphing for steelhead. Last but certainly not least, if you see a possible grab, HIT IT, or as others would say “SET”. When setting make sure you are 1) Setting down river, fish face up river, so setting upriver would pull the fly right out of their mouths. 2) Setting down river with an upward 45deg angle sweep of the rod, not too hard as we are not bass fishing, but not too soft as you need to get onto that fish. 3) Adding a strip to your set, you have some slack line out there, so adding a strip to that set will help you get onto that fish that much faster. 4) Be ready for that fish to do anything that it wants to do. It is the master of its territory and there is no way you are going to stop a fish with a burst speed of 15mph on 8,10 even 12lb test line. 5) Do not be in a hurry to land it, lots of fish are lost because anglers are in to big of a hurry to get that photo finish. 6) Most importantly, have fun, while you may not land them all, each and every steelhead hooked is a treat and an honor. Enjoy the fight, you earned it. It’s a fish of a thousand casts, and the only time you observe or hook them are when they are in their home waters. There is no bi-catch of steelhead out in the ocean on charter boats, the gill netting boats or those fishing off the bank in the ocean. Only as they return to their home waters do you have the opportunity to hook one of these magical creatures. That’s why they are called the ghost, the only time you see them is when you see them. Pretty Cool!
Additional tips when nymphing for steelhead
After all that we’ve discussed above, there are still some additional tips and tricks Id like to add while nymphing for steelhead. Some are no-brainers, but some should be said and considered just in case.
- If you miss a possible grab, cast your nymph right back in the same exact spot. If you didn’t stick that fish to hard, it will more than likely grab your fly a second time. Steelhead are very lazy (cold) in the winter, they don’t move much until they are woken up.
- Be sure to check your flies and tippet often. A dull hook or frayed line can make or break the one and only opportunity at the fish of the day.
- If you aren’t getting any grabs, try something different. Check your depth first, you may not be getting down deep enough. If your depth is good, steelhead are trout mind you, sometimes they are skittish with big/bright flies. So, try downsizing your fly, change the color, or you may need to try smaller tippet material as they also may be leader shy.
- If I am able, I like to scout locations that I plan on fishing a head of time to see where the fishy spots may be. If able, take a picture of this run from the road, this will come in handy later. Scouting will save you a good amount of time as well as energy on the day you plan to fish. Once on the river, I will always read the river first to determine where I want to start and where those fish may be holding. Sometimes the spots look different when you are on the water. Remember that picture you took, use that to help you fish that run, that picture is your eyes in the sky.
- If someone is just leaving the spot you wanted to fish, don’t be afraid to fish right after him/her. You don’t know what their setup was, how long they have been there or if they were doing something incorrectly! I have stuck plenty of fish, fishing right behind other wade anglers and even drift boats, especially in the winter months.
Staying warm while nymphing for steelhead
Dressing in warm clothes may seem rhetorical when fishing during the winter months, but you will be surprised how cold you can actually get when fishing in a river with water temp is in the upper 30s and low 40s. First off COTTON KILLS, do not, I repeat do not wear anything made with cotton. Staying warm is all about layering, have the right layers and you will never get too cold. I always recommend wearing more layers than you need, as its better to have and not need, than need and not have, if you get to hot, just take some layers off. Also, keep an extra pair of cloths in your vehicle just in case you fall in. I am a firm supporter and believer of Simms product, I have been wearing their gear for years now and Simms has never left me stranded, so everything that I will be refereeing to will be Simms products. However, lots of other companies make the same products so anything similar to it will work. First, we start with a good wicking base layer-aka long johns really. Simms Light weight core bottoms and tops are the bees knees, I wear these 80% of the time when Im in my waders as a base layer or just the only layer I wear, I run hot. From there you will want to look at a mid-layer aka-warmer pair of long johns to go over those. Simms mid-weight core bottoms and tops work great for that extra warmth. Now when its really cold out, there are a few other options that you can wear over your base layer like Simms fleece mid layer full bib, Extreme core bottom and top, Fjords bottoms, just to name a few, and Simms has other nice options in this extreme cold condition garments too. I have noticed this, the warmer your legs are the warmer your feet will be. The blood in your legs feed your feet, so if your legs are cold, your feet will be freezing. As stated, I run extremely warm and used to skimp on the warmer mid layer clothing and my feet were always really cold if not numb by the end of the day. Now that I am wearing an extra layer of leggings over my base, my toes are much more comfortable by the end of the day. Most of the time I just wear the mid weight layer clothing without the base, as the base is just a tad to much for my body. Socks are also extremely important and I use the following socks, Simms Merino light weight hiker, Merino Mid weight hiker and the Merino Thermal OTC sock. I where the 2 lighter ones under my Thermal OTC depending on water temps, and they keep my toes fairly warm. So id wear the light hiker, the medium hiker and then the extreme over them. Lately I have fallen in love with heated bluetooth socks. Yes that’s right heated socks. I do the light hiker, the heated sock then a light extreme sock and my feet are never cold. I usually get 2 days out of the battery life, again I run pretty warm. After getting all your insulated underwear now its time for waders. There are a ton of waders on the market, but I have found over the years, you get what you pay for. Ive been rocking Simms for 15yrs now and I personally love my new model G4Z waders, but most don’t have $1000 lying around for a pair these, are they worth it yes, but we all have a budget. I do recommend at least getting into a pair of the breathable gor-tex waders starting at the Simms Freestone waders. Personal recommendation would be the G3 wader, a bit more wear and tear protection and they seem to fit just a bit better too. Oh and if you can splurge for the zipper model, you bladder will thank you as well as your body when its raining out. I will not own another wader without the zipper. Money well spent. Now boots, boots are a dime a dozen, I rock Simms G4 boots and their Flyweight boot. The best bottom option is felt with studs, I don’t fish in anything else. No need to slip and fall in if you don’t have too. Felt studded bottoms will save your life. If you wear a sz10 shoe you will want a sz11 wading boot. Im a 10.5 shoe and I have 3 pairs of wading boots, sz12 for winter allowing more room for thicker socks. The tighter your boots, the colder your feet will get, blood circulation is key in winter. Sz11 boot for normal wading in waders where temps are cool and not a very thick sock. Then a sz10 for wet wading. You don’t want to be sliding around in your boot no matter the time of year. For me a sz10 and a neoprene wet wading sock is perfect during the summer months. Even if the temperatures you are fishing in are above freezing, standing in mid 30deg water, sometimes knee deep, is a recipe for getting extremely cold very fast. After all that of course, you will want to match this with a really nice wading rain jacket, once again Simms has some of the best rain jackets out there. I love my G4 jacket, but they also make the Guide jacket that is very hard to beat. With all that you will want to match it up with a warm winter hat/beanie, finger-less gloves with or without fold over mitts. The fingerless gloves allow you to have the dexterity to tie knots, adjusting your set up and still feel your fly line, all the while keeping your hands nice and toasting from the cold temps. A few gloves that I rock from Simms are the Headwaters No Finger, or fingerless, Gore-Tex Infinium Flex glove, which has fold-over fingers mitts for just your thumb, index and middle fingers and for really nasty weather I rock the 100% waterproof Prodry gloves with fleece liner. These gloves rock and work perfectly for the application they are meant for. Sometimes Ill wear the Headwaters No Fingers with the Prodry glove without the liner and my hands and fingers never get cold. As for prepping for spring and fall steelhead fishing, just dress for the weather, more than likely you will be dressing much lighter, you may not even need a base layer, but wear what you would if you were going to wet wade, but inside your waders. For summer fishing, I wet wade, I try and wet wade as much as I can, waders are a pain and you get hot fast. Just remember your extremities are the first to get cold, especially if they get wet.
Parting Thoughts
Nymphing for steelhead during the winter months is arguably the most exciting and frustrating experiences you can have after fishing Sept, Oct and Nov. I myself love fishing Dec, Jan, Feb and March as most fair-weather anglers are long gone and you get to see some of the biggest fish of the season. Im all about big fish and no crowds. However, like I said it can be the most frustrating experience as well. You can fish for days without a single grab, sometimes even weeks, but once you hook into that first winter steelhead, all the prep, equipment purchases, hours spent finding/scouting the spots and then fishing the spots for hours, days and weeks, all that goes to the wayside as you battle with that monster winter steelhead.
I hope after reading this article that you now know how to get started nymphing for not only winter steelhead but steelhead year-round. Its definitely a skill set that takes some time to master so get out there and practice/fish and you will see results. Don’t get frustrated, if you do, just take a break, sit back and take in the sights. More than likely these steelhead have taken you to a beautiful place and the scenery is breathtaking. This is supposed to be fun, so don’t beat yourself over not getting a fish, sometimes we gotta pay those dues, but in due time you will be a diehard steelheader.
If you have any additional thoughts, comments, questions or you want to book your next fly-fishing adventure, feel free to contact me at any time via phone, email or text.
-Captain Brian-
The Spey Mechanic
